Zang Toi took the audience on a journey to Shanghai and the 1930’s with his “Paris of the Orient” collection at Lincoln Center last night. The renowned designer, who is known for his chic and elegant creations, opened the show with cashmere glen-plaid 1930’s gangster trouser suits and trench jackets followed by English wool tweed skirt and blazer accompanied by instrumental jazz music from the “Twin Peaks” soundtrack. The tweedy looks were followed by gorgeous Shanghainese Tai Tai suits and coats, extravagant and beautiful long black and jade silk empress gowns, jade ostrich feather mini cape and pouf which were the standout pieces of the show. The color jade was the key element in Toi’s Fall/Winter collection and was featured in the majority of his creations worn by the models last night. All together, the collection was a vibrant mix of oriental inspired designs in a palette of opium, black and jade and highlighted what the House of Toi does best: creating sophisticated, glamorous and timeless beauty of the female form. At the end of the show Zang Toi walked the runway with one of his models while receiving a standing ovation from the audience for his latest Fall/Winter 2014 collection.
Malaysian-born Zang Toi founded his fashion label and the “House of Toi” collection in 1989 and is considered a renowned designer in the world of Haute Fashion. He studied at the famed Parsons School of Design after moving to NYC at the age of 20. He is known for his chic and sophisticated designs that are both timeless and elegant. Toi’s contribution to the fashion industry has been recognized in various publications such as Vogue, Vanity Fair and The New York Times. His luxurious creations that are all hand made in NYC are popular with Hollywood celebrities and royalty alike.
Zang Toi Autumn/Winter 2014 Runway Show
BOLD: Beautiful combination of color black and jade // Jade ostrich feather mini pouf // Gorgeous evening gowns with diamond necklaces OLD: Too focused on color jade // Gowns too long and not easy to walk in
At last night’s show at Lincoln Center designer Pamella Roland showed her love for the Big Apple with a stunning collection that was influenced by TJ Wilcox’s recent exhibit of In the Air at the Whitney Museum of American Art and NYC’s architecture including its art-deco elements. The models walked the runway in Manolo Blahnik heels to the beat of a contemporary lounge, R&B and jazz soundtrack that complemented the NYC inspired creations. The very extensive collection includes black lambskin skirts and coats, oak brown silk satin parka with black fox trim, elegant evening gowns in navy and gold, maco beaded fringe gowns and sequin silver and pale gold cocktail dresses. Pamella Roland’s Fall/Winter line captures the architectural energy of NYC and I am sure her glamorous and elegant designs will be popular with style icons and celebrities alike. Pamella Roland closed the show by posing for pictures with her three children on the runway which earned her an additional round of applause from the audience.
Pamella Roland, whose designs are all made in New York, launched her collection in 2002 and has since enjoyed great success with her brand Pamella Roland, which is sold at prestigious department stores and retailers in the US and abroad. With a degree in business management and her passion for fashion and commerce Pamella Roland oversees both the creative and business side of her label. She has become one of the leading American designers for evening wear and her creations are popular with A-list celebrities such as Angelina Jolie, Eva Longoria and Halle Berry. Pamella is also a member of the Council of Fashion Designers of America and the Vice President of the Board of Trustees at the Whitney Museum of American Art in NYC.
Pamella Roland Autumn/Winter 2014 Runway Show
BOLD: Great fusion of various fabrics and details // Glamorous sequin cocktail dresses // Very chic NY inspired collection OLD: Too classic evening gowns // Heavy on dark colors
Brazilian breakout designer Alessandra Meskita presented her first collection of ready-to-wear clothing at Lincoln Center on Sunday night. The Meskita models strutted the runway with sleek high ponytails and sunglasses accompanied by electronic dance music. The collection was heavy on functional fabrics, such as neoprene, and featured neoprene bodysuits and dresses, silk wool jumpsuits and dresses, bomber jackets, leather bustier and corsets. Inspired by the 100-year-anniversary of Beverly Hills and the Year of the Horse, Meskita’s creations combine sleek lines from the world of sportswear with 1950’s Hollywood glamour. All together, the collection was feminine and chic yet comfortable and ultra-modern. The usage of neoprene was definitely an eye-catching element of the show which makes Meskita’s Fall/Winter collection unique.
Alessandra Meskita was born and grew up in Sao Paulo, Brazil where her artistic expression was influenced and encouraged by her mother, a sculptor and painter, from an early age. By the age of 15 she created her first clothing collection. In 2007 she started her fashion career working for French designer Christian Audigier as Global Creative Director who recognized her passion and talent in the design industry. Alessandra decided to launch her own clothing line, MESKITA, in 2010. Her designs that feature ready-to-wear, lingerie and swimwear are created to make consumers feel confident, glamorous, sexy and independent.
Meskita Autumn/Winter 2014 Runway Show
BOLD: Usage of fabric neoprene // Silk wool jumpsuit // Leather corsets OLD: Too functional & sleek // Not many romantic elements
At this show Monique Lhuillier, who is known for her signature feminine designs, stunned the audience with a more mysterious and dramatic collection showing off a romantic dark side. The designer combined elegant embroidery and soft tulle with fishnet lace and leather elements. The extensive collection featured “noir” and grey lace blouses, fuchsia and black embroidered midi and cocktail dresses, an hombre pink skull embroidered tulle cocktail dress and a blush tulle high-low gown with black baroque embroidery. The designer’s new Fall/Winter 2014 collection including new provocative elements is simply gorgeous and I am sure it will be a self-runner in the stores and a red carpet favorite.
Monique Lhuillier is one of the leading American couture bridal and red carpet gown designers. Founded in 1996 Monique’s label has become well-known for femininity, effortless sense of style and luxurious fabrics. The success of her bridal wear has led to the launch of a complete ready-to-wear and evening gown collection which is popular with celebrities such as Emma Stone, Blake Lively and Gwyneth Paltrow. She introduced her couture footwear line in spring 2013. The designer has two flagship salons in Beverly Hills and New York City and her collections are also available at Saks Fifth Avenue,Harvey Nichols and Bergdorf Goodman.
Monique Lhuillier Autumn/Winter 2014 Runway Show
BOLD: Tulle cocktail dresses // Embroidered dresses // Delicate lace OLD: Very expected collection // Too romantic
If you are looking for ready-to-wear, young and rocker style clothing, then you should not miss designers Mark and Estel. The models strutted the runway with slicked back hair accompanied by contemporary rock music which complemented the rock ‘n’ roll inspired trends. Their collection featured dark-colored velvet jumpsuit and silk cape, brown and grey striped wool hooded sweater dresses, black wool overcoats and leather body armors which were the standout pieces of the show. All together, the collection was heavy on black and grey but I am sure the rocker-chic line will be popular with fashionistas and a younger hip clientele alike. At the end of the show the designers Mark Tango and Estel Day performed one of their rock ‘n’ roll songs which was definitely one of the highlights of the first night of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week 2014 at Lincoln Center.
The fashion and music duo Mark Tango an Estel Day, who work and live in Los Angeles, is well-known in the industry for their rocker style yet incredibly comfortable designs. They launched their fashion brand and band “Mark and Estel” in 2005. Their rock ‘n’ roll inspired clothes are now sold in over 300 retail locations in the USA and internationally in Asia and Europe. Their edgy pieces are popular with celebrities, artists and fashion designers such as Mary Kate Olsen, Mischa Barton and Lady Gaga, for whom the duo custom-designed their ‘Ripped & Holey Leggings’ on her Fame Ball Tour in 2009.
Mark & Estel Autumn/Winter 2014 Runway Show
BOLD: Wearable comfortable pieces // Leather body armors // Wool overcoats and sweaters OLD: Cheap-looking fabrics // Too heavy on dark colors
The Berlin-based fashion designer Hien Le was the first to show his Fall 2014 collection at the Fashion Week in Berlin. The “best newcomer” who made his first runway debut at MBFW in Germany’s capitol in July 2011, stayed true to his ultra-clean aesthetic. He kept things simple with silhouettes inspired by athletic basics, for men and women. The up and comer showed knitted sweaters for him and her, as well as translucent dresses and tops in beautiful fall hues like wine and midnight blue. Hien Le ended his show on a refreshing note with a parade of clean white looks.
BOLD: Array of beautiful fall hues // Clean styles // Sophisticated designs OLD: Knitted sweaters // Very expected collection // Too many white looks
If you are looking for stylish, yet wearable German fashion you should not miss Marcel Ostertag. The young designer graduated at Central St. Martins College in London in 2006 with honors and since has been working with some of the biggest brands in fashion such as Paul Smith and Burberry. In 2008, Ostertag created his own label and has been showing his collections on the runways of Shanghai, Beijing, Berlin and London. His creations and great fashion sense have earned him various awards in the industry.
At his Show, the designer himself was the first to strut the runway in heels and a flowing silk dress. The models followed him to 80’s glam rock with their hair in tight buns and cat-eye glasses. The collection featured flowing silk dresses, ostrich feather covered sweaters, a new material that looked like a shinny, long-fringed carpet, thin leather dresses and skirts, and fur-everything from dresses to sweaters. A reoccurring trend this year seems to be oversized sleeves which were also shown in Kilian Kerner’s show. All together the collection was well rounded, included a new usage of materials and I am sure it will be a self-runner in the stores.
Kilian Kerner is one of the new German designers that should be watched! At just 34 and after only 10 years of having his own label, Kerner is enjoying a great success with his brand Kilian Kerner, which is now sold in 14 countries and is worn by famous actresses and models such as Eva Padberg and Karolina Kurkovà. Also Kerner has caught the attention of the international press with the renowned fashion journalist Suzy Menkes calling him major talent among the up and coming designers.
The Kilian Kerner models walked the runway with slicked back hair and Doc Martens to the beat of live music played next to the runway. The very extensive collection featured exaggerated sleeves on crop tops, knee length skirts in metallic green and red, printed quilt jackets and skirts and satin and silk over skinny leather. The collection seemed to lack cohesiveness at times, which was partially due to the large amount of outfits offered which included many eye-catching designs.
Kilian Kerner Autumn/Winter 2014 Runway Show
BOLD: Satin over leather // Exaggerated sleeves on crop top sweaters // Native american prints on quilted bomber jacket OLD: Unflattering mid-riff cut outs // Grandma’s quilt as dresses // Oversize suits
Almost 40 years later, she still lives a successful fashionable jet-set life. For this current collection – Fall/Winter 2013, von Furstenberg turned to a heady mix of glam rock and Studio 54 — a moment in the Seventies when she began to spread her wings sartorially and otherwise. Without a creative director by her side for the first time in over a decade, von Furstenberg was determined to recapture some of her label’s essence that she felt had recently gone astray.
Diane von Furstenberg Fall 2013 Runway Show
BOLD: Array of colorful original prints // Beautiful maxi dresses // Glamorous Seventies OLD: Too many colors // Too many matching pieces
It’s been a while since Kenneth Cole got started working in fashion and selling shoes from his trunk. Last week, he celebrated the brand’s 30th anniversary with a return to the runway at New York Fashion Week after a 7 year hiatus. With a brilliantly themed event, “Social Netwalking”, focusing on the drastically evolved world, Cole’s Fall 2013 runway show was set in an unfinished industrial building. The fast walking models and the hard music conveyed the tone of the collection: Futuristic Industrial Germany met the New York City businessman on-the-go, ever so chic, edgy and sophisticated. The clothes were rendered mostly in black and gray with some military green and burgundy, along with lots of leather details and metallics. An array of outerwear and knitted skirts with an air of casual chic was also shown at his show.
Kenneth Cole Fall 2013 Runway Show
BOLD: Military green and burgundy // Beautiful long outerwear // Lots of leather destails OLD: Too much black and gray // Mood a bit too “triste”