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    Fashion History Classics: Who invented the Pencil Skirt?

    November 14th, 2013

    French fashion designer Christian Dior first introduced the classic modern pencil skirt in the late 1940s using the term “H-Line” to describe its shape. It is in stark contrast to Dior’s full-skirted New Look in his “A-line.” Read the rest of this entry »
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    Fashion History: The New Look Era

    Oktober 23rd, 2013

    During World War II fashion responded to the restrained mood and economy of the war. Many fashion houses closed during occupation of Paris.

    Fashion History from 1940 – 1950

    During the World War II (1939 – 1945), all types of cloth were needed for a variety of wartime purposes, and material for clothing was severely rationed and limited for each year and its number decreased steadily as the war progressed. From 1940 onward, no more than thirteen feet (four meters) of cloth was permitted to be used for a coat and a little over 3 feet (1 meter) was all that allowed for a blouse. No belt could be over 1.5 inches (3 centimeters) wide. Despite this, haute couture tried to keep its flag flying. Fashions of the era emphasized shorter skirts than ever before, buttons for any type of clothes were limited to three per item, evening wear was also shortened and women were encouraged to make do with ankle socks and bare legs.

    Among young men in the War Years the zoot suit became popular. After the war, the “American Look” became very popular among men in Europe. Certain London manufacturers ushered in a revival of Edwardian elegance in men’s fashion, adopting a tight-fitting retro style that was intended to appeal to traditionalists. This look, originally aimed at the respectable young man about town, was translated into popular fashion as the “Teddy boy” style.

    By the late 1940s and early 1950s, designers were tired of the utilitarian, minimalist clothing of the wartime era. Paris fashion, which had fallen from its position as the capital of the fashion world after World War II, made a strong comeback after the war in part due to the international success of couturier Christian Dior’s first women’s collection “Corelle” which went down in fashion history as the “New Look” in February 1947. His new clothing styles which emphasized rounded shoulders, full skirts, and narrow waists was so successful that it went down in fashion history. The “New Look” became revolutionary, strongly popular and influenced fashion and other designers for many years.

    Christian Dior’s New Look from 1947:

    Fashion History from 1950 – 1960

    The 1950s were years of nuclear anxiety, economic expansion, social conservation and the rise of American popular culture. Yet even as bourgeois standards of propriety and “good taste” were expressed in fashion through girdles, hats and gloves, young people were developing fashions of their own.

    As the installation of central heating became more widespread the age of minimum-care garments began and lighter textiles and, eventually, synthetics, were introduced. A new youth style emerged in the 1950s and changed the focus of fashion forever. During the same period of the time, in men’s fashion ‘plaid’ was very common, both for shirts and suits, which was often viewed as a symbol of rebellion and banned in schools.

    Three of the most prominent of the Parisian couturiers in the 1950s were Cristobal Balenciaga, Hubert de Givenchy, and Pierre Balmain. Balenciaga is well known as one of the few couturiers in fashion history who could use their own hands to design, cut, and sew the models which symbolized the height of his artistry. In 1951, he totally transformed the silhouette, broadening the shoulders and removing the waist. Followed by the tunic dress which he designed in 1955 and which later developed into the chemise dress of 1957. The French designer Givenchy created a sensation with his separates, which could be mixed and matched at will. His first couture house was opened in 1952. Balmain liked to dress up sophisticated women luxurious elegance, simple tailoring, and a more natural look. His clientele was typified by the tailored glamor of the “New Look”, with its ample bust, narrow waist, and full skirts. Along with his haute couture work, the talented businessman pioneered a ready-to-wear range called Florilege and also launched a number of highly successful perfumes.

    In 1954, after closing different boutiques in the war years, Coco Chanel’s strong comeback went in history. She detested the “New Look” to the fashion world and presented a collection which contained a whole range of ideas that would be adopted and copied by women all over the world: her famous little braided suit with gold chains, shiny costume jewelry, silk blouses in colors that matched the suit linings, sleek tweeds, monogrammed buttons, flat black silk bows, boaters, quilted bags on chains, and evening dresses and furs that were marvels of simplicity.

    By the end of the decade off-the-peg clothing had become much more popular than in the past. It was literally the start-shot for the general public to access the fashionable styles for affordable prices.

    See some beautiful designs of the most influental fashion designers of the 1950′s:


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    Paris Haute Couture Week: Christian Dior FW 2012/13 Show

    Juli 6th, 2012

    Former creative director of Jil Sander, Raf Simons had his debut Haute Couture FW 2012/13 Show at the Hôtel Particulier in Paris a few days ago. As the new head designer of the Parisian Couture house Christian Dior, Raf Simons showed 54 amazing looks that nodded to the history of the house — cinched waists and full A-line skirts.

    That Simons debut would be a success seemed a given, but that it would be such a triumph was a thrill. The entire collection was beautiful, sophisticated, and restrained. The answer to the question “what made his couture collection look different?” gave Raf Simons himself in an interview to Style.com: “[I am trying] to change the psychology of people who are interested in couture. The way I’ve been looking at it so far is as a still image, something you look at for that moment. I think lots of people see it as a still, an image from the red carpet. I want to make it more dynamic, appeal to a person who has a different energy. A younger person, in mind, not necessarily in age. And I think couture is very much about curating something unique for women. Fashion is so mass-produced now; I hope there will come a refocus on how people see couture. And I would also hope for a new focus on the craft.”

    We couldn’t agree more. Now, dive into Raf Simons very own couture world and see for yourself how beautiful made his first collection was.

    Related Articles:
    1_Latest Fashion News: Raf Simon new creative director at Dior
    2_Fashion History: Couture isn’t dead, is it?
    3_Fashion Shows: Dior’ s Haute Couture Show SS 2012


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    Latest Fashion News: Raf Simons takes over the reins at Christian Dior

    April 10th, 2012

    Finally, more than one year of speculation and rumor who the “next” John Galliano is going to be for the luxurious fashion house Dior, is over. Christian Dior named Raf Simons its next couturier on Monday. He’d unviel his first collection for the house during Paris Couture Week in July.

    Simons as the new artistic director of women’s haute couture, ready-to-wear and accessory collections was working as the creative director for the German fashion house Jil Sander for 6 years before he was ousted in February and succeeded by Jil Sander herself.

    We are glad Simons is now in good hands with Christian Dior. Good luck to him and we are looking forward to seeing his first show.

    speakfashion, speak fashion, speaking fashion, Latest Fashion News, Fashion behind the Scene, Fashion backstage, Raf Simons, Christian Dior, Dior, Jil Sander
    Photo: Interviewmagazine.com

    Related Articles:
    1_Fashion Shows: Paris Haute Couture Show – Dior S/S 2012
    2_Raf Simons in speakfashion’s fashion dictionary
    3_Fashion History: The New Look Era by Christian Dior


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    Paris Haute Couture Week: Christian Dior Spring 2012 Runway Show

    Januar 24th, 2012

    The Christian Dior haute couture S/S 2012 collection designed by Bill Gaytten, John Galliano’s right hand for his entire career, had the idea to expose, like an X-ray or blueprint, the craftsmanship of the Dior ateliers.

    Showing full-skirted dresses of delicately embroidered silk organdy, a lot of black and beige and a few pieces of purple and red designs, Gaytten didn’t add something new or made constructions that looked hard and aging.

    Watch Dior’s full haute couture show below:

    Related Articles:
    1_Fashion History Classics: Dior’s A-Line Invention
    2_Christian Dior in speakfashion’s fashion dictionary
    3_Fashion History Classics: Dior’s New Look Invention


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    Latest Fashion News: Fashion Review 2011

    Januar 2nd, 2012

    Hey fashion speaker!

    I hope you had an unforgettable New Year’s Eve and are ready for the upcoming fashion year 2012. As you know, it’s always interesting to have a sneak peek at the past year to be open for an increadible start into the next year. Here are the 10 best and worse fashion moments in 2011:

    1_The 10 most fashionable moments of 2011: John Galliano’s eviction

    In February 2011 John Galliano went on an anti-Semitic rant at a bar in Paris. He was immediately suspended and subsequently fired from his 14-year post as the creative mind at Christian Dior. He also got layed off from his eponymous label a few weeks later.

    This was the greatest fashion scandal of the year.

    Latest Fashion News, Fashion News, Fashion Backstage, Fashion behind the scene, New York, Christian Dior, Dior, John Galliano

    Photo: The Hollywood Gossip

    2_The 10 most fashionable moments of 2011: Fashion muse Lady Gaga

    One thing is def. save to say: Ms. Gaga was the most influential figure in fashion this year. In March, she walked the runway for her stylist Nicola Formichetti’s first womenswear show for Thierry Mugler after that she was seen on several magazine covers as Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and got her own holiday workshop at Barneys New York. Lucky her!

    Lady Gaga, Fashion News, Fashion Backstage, Fashion behind the scene, Latest Fashion News, speakfashion, speak fashion, speaking fashion

    Photo: Fashionwe.com

    3_The 10 most fashionable moments of 2011: Christophe Decarnin leaving Balmain

    Due to the absence at Christophe Decarnin’s Fashion Show for Balmain in Paris, the fashion world got a bit confused whether the rumors of having a nervous breakdown might be really true. The fact of the matter was that Decarnin had been absent from the label for months due to creative differences with the brand’s management. Since then Balmain womenswear designer Olivier Rousteing took over the reans of Decarnin’s position.

    Unfortunately this is no good news.

    Latest Fashion News, Fashion News, Fashion Backstage, Fashion behind the scene, New York, Balmain, Christopher Decarnin, Decarnin

    Photo: Squa.re – the-sophisticated-distress-of-balmain-homme-spring summer-2010


    4_The 10 most fashionable moments of 2011: Elizabeth Taylor’s death

    The most shocking news: Elizabeth Taylor’s death in March 2011.

    Latest Fashion News, Fashion News, Fashion Backstage, Fashion behind the scene, New York, Elizabeth Taylor

    Photo: http://alphanerdz.com


    5_The 10 most fashionable moments of 2011: Kate Middleton’s stunning McQueen wedding dress

    April, 29th 2011: Kate and William’s Royal wedding!
    It was no surprise when it was announced that Sarah Burton for McQueen was going to create Kate Middlton’s one-of-a-kind wedding gown and the streamlined dress of her sister Pippa. Now, Burton is one of the most famous fashion designers in the world. Kate’s choice to wear Alexander McQueen was not only a triumph for British fashion, but also an incredible tribute to the late designer who had passed away the previous year.

    One of the best fashion moments of 2011!

    Latest Fashion News, Fashion News, Fashion Backstage, Fashion behind the scene, New York, Kate Middleton, Kate Middlonton's wedding dress, Sarah Burton, McQueen Dress, McQueen, Alexander McQueen wedding dress, Alexander McQueen dress, Sarah Burton wedding dress, Kate Middlonton's wedding dress

    Photo: Vogue Daily

    6_The 10 most fashionable moments of 2011: Alexander McQueen’s MET Exhibition

    Fashion legend Alexander McQueen who committed suicide in February 2010 is even now two years after his death, one of the important fashion figure of this world. The genius of the late grate McQueen was honored and celebrated by the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute in New York on May 2nd, 2011. Savage Beauty, the title of McQueens exhibit at the MET went on through May until the end of July 2011.

    The exhibit was the most success the MET ever had.

    Latest Fashion News, Fashion News, Fashion Backstage, Fashion behind the scene, New York, Alexander McQueen, McQueen, MET, Metropolitan Museum of Art, MET Exhibition, McQueen Exhibition

    Photo: 34th Street Magazine

    7_The 10 most fashionable moments of 2011: Christian Louboutin vs. Yves Saint Laurent

    In September 2011, Christian Louboutin sued Yves Saint Laurent over red-soled shoes due to consumer confusion and the use of the color “red” as a design element on an article of fashion. Eventually, the court ruled that the color “red” on the soles of shoes could not be granted as a trademark protection.

    This story takes the boring cake.

    Latest Fashion News, Fashion News, Fashion Backstage, Fashion behind the scene, New York, Loubou, YSL, red soles, red sole, Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Louboutin
    Photo: speakfashion

    8_The 10 most fashionable moments of 2011: Elie Tahari & Levine invest in Catherine Malandrino

    As of October 2011, Fashion has a new trio: Elie Tahari, Levine and Catherine Malandrino. The plan was to help Malandrino to grow her brand in Asia and Europe both at retail and wholesale. She will benefit from Tahari and Levine’s international resources.

    Some good news!

    Latest Fashion News, Fashion News, Fashion Backstage, Fashion behind the scene, New York, Elie Tahari, Tahari, Levine, Malandrino, Catherine Malendrino

    Photo: Catherine Malandrino’s Facebook Fanpage, 10/12/11


    9_The 10 most fashionable moments of 2011: Emmanuell Alt takes over Vogue Paris

    After Carine Roitfeld quit her job at Vogue Paris late last year, it was long uncertain who’s going to take over her post. She’d been an increadable chief-editor and who ever wanted to replace her had large shoes to fill. After months of speculation, the magazine’s former fashion director Emmanuelle Alt was named her successor.

    Latest Fashion News, Fashion News, Fashion Backstage, Fashion behind the scene, New York, Vogue, Vogue Paris, Emmanuelle Alt

    Photo: christopherlovesclothes.blogspot.com


    10_The 10 most fashionable moments of 2011: Best red carpet dress

    And the oscar goes to — Giovanna Battaglia! This woman in her vintage Stephen Sprouse gown was beyond every imagination. What a woman, what a dress. Could you have dressed better than her at the Cannes Film Festival? I doubt it!

    Latest Fashion News, Fashion News, Fashion Backstage, Fashion behind the scene, New York, Giovanna Battaglia, Best red carpet dress of 2011, red carpet dress battaglia

    Source + Photo: The New York Times, Fashion & Style – Cathy Horyn
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    Fashion History Classics: Who invented the first A-Line collection?

    Dezember 19th, 2011

    The term ‘A-Line’ is usually used to describe a certain type of clothing, usually a dress, skirt or coat that is shaped like the capital letter ‘A’. It is narrow at the top and flares away from the hip towards the knees. Read the rest of this entry »
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    Fashion History Classics: Who invented the “New Look”?

    Oktober 27th, 2011

    “I wanted my dresses be constructed, molded upon the curves of the feminine body, whose sweep they would stylize,” French fashion designer Christian Dior pointed out in his autobiography. Indeed, in the spring of 1947 this was Dior’s concept when he launched his incredible new women’s line collection “Corelle” which went down in fashion history as the “New Look”. Read the rest of this entry »
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    Galliano, John

    Oktober 27th, 2011

    John Carles Galliano aka John Galliano, British fashion designer, born in 1960. The designer finished his fashion education in 1983 and showed his very first ready-to-wear collection one year later. He quickly made a name for himself and became well known as a talented, avant-garde designer who created sophisticated and high-end fashion designs. Galliano was the head designer of the French couture houses Givenchy (from 1995 to 1996) and Christian Dior (from 1996 to 2011). Since 1986, he also runs his own namesake fashion label.
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    John Galliano

    Oktober 27th, 2011

    John Carles Galliano aka John Galliano, British fashion designer, born in 1960. The designer finished his fashion education in 1983 and showed his very first ready-to-wear collection one year later. He quickly made a name for himself and became well known as a talented, avant-garde designer who created sophisticated and high-end fashion designs. Galliano was the head designer of the French couture houses Givenchy (from 1995 to 1996) and Christian Dior (from 1996 to 2011). Since 1986, he also runs his own namesake fashion label.
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