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    Latest Fashion News: 12 Fashion Designer who changed fashion forever

    September 2nd, 2015

    Today, I’d like to introduce you to 12 most influential fashion designers you should know about.

    Coco ChanelElsa SchiaparelliJeanne LanvinMadeleine ChéruitJeanne PaquinMadeleine VionnetMadame GrésValentinaClaire MccardellBonnie CashinMary QuantKatharine Hamnett


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    Fashion History: The Modern Era

    April 3rd, 2015

    World War II created many radical changes in the fashion industry. After the War, Paris wasn’t the global center of fashion like it used to be and mass-manufactured fashion became increasingly popular.

    Fashion History from 1920 – 1930

    During the 1920s clothing styles officially entered the modern era of fashion design. The traditional divide that had always existed between the high society and worker class was suddenly questioned in the West. A new young generation was born who fought against the existing differences. Women began to liberate themselves from constricting and uncomfortable gowns for the first time. They were open for casual and more comfortable styles like pants and shorter skirts, low waistlines, and revolutionary styles of the flapper era. Cloche hats without rims also became a key popular accessory.

    As the European hierarchies were overturned and due to the decrease of the raw material, Europe was more than ready to adopt a quality ready-to-wear garment on American lines, something to occupy the middle ground between off-the-rack and high-dressmaking. New developing technologies made it easier to literally manufacture ‘mass-manufactured’ clothes and beat handmade, high-quality fashion for the very first time but of course could not stop fashion leaking out onto the streets. Unlike haute couture production, the mass-manufactured production cycles were much longer due to the larger quantities. Fashion designer had to try to assume more than a year in advance what their costumers would want and wear.

    Watch the Roaring Twenties here:

    Fashion History from 1930 – 1940

    During this decade women’s fashions moved away from the brash, daring style of the 1920s towards a more feminine, romantic silhouette. The female body changed into a more neo-classical shape that why dresses were made to fit close to the body in order to emphasize youthful elegance. The waist was restored to its proper position, hemlines dropped and the slim-fitting day dresses became very popular. The term ‘ready-to-wear’ was still not widely used, but the fashion workers and boutiques already began to describe such clothes as ‘sportive’ and being used only for sport matters.

    The fashion styles of the flapper era lasted throughout the 1920s and into the early 1930s before the hardships of the Great Depression forced more conservative trends back to a more traditionally feminine look: skirts became longer and the waistline became a more important part of the dress again. Due to the Depression which caused many women to do more work at home themselves, the fashion designer were forced to distinguish between day and evening styles. Women needed more casual and practical clothing for the daytime and could wear then easily simple skirts and casual outfits at home without any worries. Couture’s new fabrics like silk, metallic lamé, synthetic fabric rayon and cotton on the other hand, became an important part of many designers’ fashions during the 1930s.

    The most prominent and influential fashion designers of the 1930s were Elsa Schiaparelli and Madeleine Vionnet. Elsa Schiaparelli did not so much revolutionize fashion with her exciting and inventive designs. She was called ‘one of the rare innovators’ of the day by the press. Her first knitted black pullover with a trompe-l’oeil white bow created a sensation and was a start shot of following breathtaking collections thereafter till her business closed in 1954 because she did not adapt to the changes in fashion following World War II.

    Madeleine Vionnet created more the timeless and beautiful gowns and was well known for the bias cut. “The architect among the dressmakers” was inspired by Greek art, garments which appeared to float freely around the female body rather than distort or mold its shape. Her clothes were famous for accentuating the natural female form and were made without excessive elaboration or dissimulation. Remain faithful to the elegant line she used a lot chiffon, silk and Moroccan crepe which created a sensual effect.

    Men’s fashions continued the informal, practical trend that had dominated since the end of the First World War.

    Fashion during The Great Depression:


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    Shoulder Pad

    Juni 21st, 2013

    A shoulder pad is a pad that is worked into a garment to raise and enhance the shape of the shoulder and the all over shape of the upper body. Shoulder pads give the illusion of broader, less sloping shoulders and make the wearer look more powerful. They first appeared in women’s fashion in the 1930s when Elsa Schiarpelli started using them for her designs and soon gained popularity after movie stars such as Joan Crawford started wearing them. Shoulder pads have been popular in men’s fashion for a long time but have gone in and out of style and have been popular in different shapes for women since first worn n the 1930s.
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    Let’s ask the Fashion Dictionary: Who’s Elsa Schiaperelli?

    Mai 25th, 2013

    That much is save to say: she was one of the most famous fashion figures between 1918 to 1939.

    Must known fashion person #28: Elsa Schiaperelli

    Elsa Schiaparelli, Italian fashion designer, lived from 1890 to 1973. In 1927, the gifted designer created a collection of knitwear. She used a certain double layered stitch that was made by Armenian refugees. Schiaperelli was the first designer to feature sweaters with surrealist trompe l’oeil images.

    Schiaperelli still remains an important fashion figure.

    If you’d like to learn more useful fashion terminology just click yourself through our fashion dictionary.

    ps: Have you discovered a fashion term you’d like to introduce to our fellow fashion speakers? Feel free to drop us a line or leave a comment below and we’ll share it here.
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    Latest Fashion News: Schiaperelli & Prada’s Impossible Conversation

    Juni 25th, 2012

    As I already mentioned in October, I saw yesterday the Elsa Schiaparelli (1890–1973) vs Miuccia Prada (born 1949) exhibition “Impossible Conversation” at the MET in New York City.

    The exhibit explores the similarities between the two powerful Italian women fashion designers. Both were born in Italy, Schiaparelli in Rome in 1890, Prada in Milan in 1949. Both were from conservative families and both came late to fashion almost by accident. Schiaparelli started making her own clothes after living in Paris and not finding the clothing that suited her very own tastes. Her focus was designing hats and jackets. Ms. Prada on the other hand inherited a family luggage business, began to design bags, then shoes, then clothes eventually.

    Based on Vanity Fair’s “Impossible Interviews” from the 1930′s, the exhibit shows a video conversation between actress Judy Davis, playing Ms. Schiaperelli and Ms. Prada herself. Created by Costume Institute curators Harold Koda and Andrew Bolton with the help of filmmaker Baz Luhrman, Bolton taped interviews with Ms. Prada and separately with Judy Davis whose script comes directly from Schiaparelli’s autobiography “Shocking Life”. He then cut the films together that you see the two powerful women having an “Impossible Conversation” across a long dinner table at the beginning of the show, and several times throughout.


    Intro Baz Luhrmann Met Video

    The exhibition also displays several designs from both designers with the main topic: waist up vs waist down. Schiaparelli tells us that back in her time, society women were often encountered seated at tables in cafes or restaurants. She, as a fashion designer was therefore most interested in designing clothing items that were most visible in such situations: everything from the waist up. Ms. Prada, who had experienced hippie back-to-the-earthness along with the sexual revolution was more focused on the lower part of the body: everything from the waist down. The show gives us therefore an interesting selection of Schiaparelli’s jackets and hats, while Prada shows us her skirts and shoes.

    I think this exhibit was excellent performed even though I don’t think it will be such a success as McQueen’s “Savage Beauty” drama from last year. Prada and Schiaparelli’s “Impossible Conversation” is an inspiring, intellectual piece of history that delivers some of the main answers to the never outdated question: what makes a woman desirable to herself? Surely the most important issue for independent and emancipated women back then and now.

    Related Articles:
    1_Latest Fashion News: Schiaperelli meets Prada at the MET
    2_Elsa Schiaparelli in speakfashion’s fashion dictionary
    3_Miuccia Prada in speakfashion’s fashion dictionary


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    Latest Fashion News: Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada to meet at the MET

    Oktober 12th, 2011

    Next spring, the Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute (MET) will showcase about 80 designs of two Italian fashion designer – a combination of pieces by Schiaparelli from the late twenties to the early fifties and by Prada from the late eighties through today. Scheduled for May 10th to August 19th 2012, the exhibition will be the next one at the MET after breaking records with Alexander McQueensSavage Beauty“.

    Elsa Schiaparelli in 1936 wearing her designs (left) & Miuccia Prada (right)  Photo: The Cut, New York Magazine.

    “We wanted to do something that was completely different but consistent with our strategy, which is to look at things in the present to lead us into the past”, explained Harold Koda, curator in charge of the Costume Institute to WWD Magazine today.

    So, we can’t wait to see the next exhibit at the MET – sounds very promising! We’ll keep you posted!

    Related Articles:
    1_Fashion Trends 2011: Prada S/S 2011 men’s collection
    2_Elsa Schiaparelli in speakfashion’s fashion dictionary
    3_Fashion History / Elsa Schiaparelli in the 30s and 40s


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    Schiaparelli, Elsa

    Januar 28th, 2011

    Elsa Schiaparelli, Italian fashion designer, lived from 1890 to 1973. Alongside ‘Coco Chanel‘, the Italian designer is recognized as one of the most influential fashion figures in the 1920s and 1930s. Schiaparelli started off with a collection of knitwear in 1927, in which she used a certain double layered stitching technique that was created by Armenian fugitives. Besides her knitwear approach, Schiaparelli was particularly influenced by Surrealists like the famous painter Salvador Dalí. Hence, she became the first designer ever to feature sweaters with surrealist trompe l’oeil images. After Schiaparelli’s career came to an abrupt stillstand during World War II, the Italian designer couldn’t quite adjust to the changes in fashion after 1945, which by then was mainly influenced due to Christian Dior’sNew Look‘. As a result, Schiaparelli terminated her business in 1954.
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    Elsa Schiaparelli

    Januar 28th, 2011

    Elsa Schiaparelli, Italian fashion designer, lived from 1890 to 1973. Alongside ‘Coco Chanel‘, the Italian designer is recognized as one of the most influential fashion figures in the 1920s and 1930s. Schiaparelli started off with a collection of knitwear in 1927, in which she used a certain double layered stitching technique that was created by Armenian fugitives. Besides her knitwear approach, Schiaparelli was particularly influenced by Surrealists like the famous painter Salvador Dalí. Hence, she became the first designer ever to feature sweaters with surrealist trompe l’oeil images. After Schiaparelli’s career came to an abrupt stillstand during World War II, the Italian designer couldn’t quite adjust to the changes in fashion after 1945, which by then was mainly influenced due to Christian Dior’sNew Look‘. As a result, Schiaparelli terminated her business in 1954.
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