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    Fashion History: The Haute Couture Era

    Mai 11th, 2017

    By the end of the 19th century the horizons of the fashion industry had generally broadened. The more mobile and independent lifestyle causes many well-off women to begin to adopt and to wear the practical clothes they demanded.

    Fashion History from 1900 – 1910

    Throughout the early 20th century Paris dictated high-end fashion. Parisian designers set the fashion tone for the rest of the Western world, and their designs were highly sought for women of the upper classes. Although the two most important fashion terms and their division haute couture and pret-a-porter wasn’t sharply defined, nevertheless both fashion magazines and department stores all over the world sent their editors and buyers to the exclusive Paris Fashion Shows to follow the newest high-end fashion trends and styles. At this time fashion style magazines started to include photographs in their article and became even more influential than in the future.

    Remarkable wastes defined the fashion of the decade. And the couturiers of that time created incredibe extravagant outfits which were meticulously made. Worn by the fashionable women of the Belle Époque the outfits highlighted the S-Bend silhouette of the full-figured body. The S-Bend corset was very tightly laced at the waist which forced the hips back and the drooping mono bosom was thrust forward in a pouter pigeon effect creating a S shape. Toward the end of the decade the fashionable silhouette gradually became somewhat more straight and slim, due to Paul Poiret’s high-waisted, shorter-skirted Directoire line of clothes. Curvy hips were also flaunted by the dress styles of the era. In the early years of the first decade, skirts were only long and full. No fashionable lady could (or would) dress or undress herself without the assistance of a third party. Unlike today, the constant radical changes of the fashion trends were still literally unthinkable. The use of different trimmings were all that distinguished the styles season after season.

    This video shows Fashion in the early 1900′s:

    Fashion History from 1910 – 1918

    From 1910 until the start of the First World War in 1914, skirts gradually grew shorter and began to reveal tantalizing glimpses of the ankle. The overall silhouette of dresses also changed slightly, moving toward a slimmer, narrower and straighter line that emphasized the hips and busts. As the war began in 1914, attention and materials were drawn away from fashion design, and no significant fashion developments occurred again until peace was declared at the end of 1918.

    The most influential fashion designers of the time were Paul Poiret, Jacques Doucet and Mariano Fortuny. Paul Poiret has evolved the first outfit which women could put on without the help of a maid. He was one of the first who translated his vogue into the fashion world with his exotic kimonos and vivid colors. While the French designer Jacques Doucet excelled in superimposing pastel colors and his elaborate gossamery dresses suggested the Impressionist shimmers of reflected light, Mariano Fortuny was a curious figure with very few parallels in any age. For his dress designs he conceived a special pleating process and new dyeing techniques. Each garment was made of the finest silk.

    Fashion History from 1918 – 1920

    World War I changed the fashion world for ever. Women chose to dress like men and borrowed their clothes from the male, corsets were refused and both bustless, waistless silhouette and the flapper style became very popular among yound women. The sporty and athletic look for both women and men were popularized equally as well.

    The menswear emphasized youthfulness and relaxation in the 1920s. Unlike before the young men were no longer afraid to show their growing mood of informality, especially not the Americans. What was very tradional in the past, wearing a special outfit for every event in the well-dressed gentleman’s day, wasn’t popular any longer. Men began to wear the same soft wool suit all day long and felt confident. Short suit jackets replaced the old long jackets of the past which were now only worn for formal occasions. Men prefered more the sport clothes, including sweaters and short pants and the London cut, with its slim lines, loose-fitting sleeves, and padded shoulders were very popular.

    At that time the couturière Coco Chanel was a major figure in fashion for her chic and progressive designs. Chanel evolved the little black dress, the Chanel-Costume and the use of jersey knit for women’s clothing.

    Watch how Fashion changed after WWI due to Coco Chanel’s influence:

    Related article: Couture isn’t dead. It’s an article about how haute couture is demand than ever after the economic crise in the 21st century.
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    Harem Pants

    Mai 15th, 2016

    A Harem pant is a long and very loose fitting pant that is gathered around the ankle, creating a very baggy and voluminous look. The Harem pant was inspired by the style of Turkish and Middle Eastern pants. It was first introduced to the western fashion market for women by Paul Poiret in 1910.
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    Kimono

    Mai 31st, 2013

    A ‘Kimono’ is a traditional Japanese garment originally worn by women as well as men. The term basically translates to English as ‘a thing to wear’. Fabric-wise there are lots of different versions around today, mostly based on cotton or silk. The traditional cut of a ‘Kimono’ is a loose fitting, ankle-length robe, mostly tucked to the body with a belt-like ribbon called ‘obi’. The ‘Kimono’ became internationally popular during the early 1970s, when designer like ‘Diane von Fuerstenberg‘ adapted the traditional garment to something known as the ‘Wrap Dress‘ in today’s fashion. It also made an earlier appearance in the world of fashion when Paul Poiret introduced his invention of a ‘Kimono Coat’ in 1904.
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    Paul Poiret

    Juli 22nd, 2010

    Paul Poiret, French fashion designer, lived from 1879 to 1944. Poiret started in fashion as an umbrella maker. He designed his first clothes as a teenager by collecting the leftovers of the fabrics that were used to cut the umbrella patterns. Poiret sold his sketches to Madeleine Cheruit, a popular dressmaker at that time. She saw a talented young designer in Poiret and purchased a few of his sketches to sell them to Parisian couture houses, until the French designer was hired by Jacques Doucet in 1896. Poiret opened his own fashion house in 1904 and invented the controversial kimono coat. Known as the “King of Fashion” from 1904 to 1924, he also introduced the first outfit that women could put on without the extra help of their maid.

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